CultureAl-Mutanabbi Street
The book market that gives Baghdad its motto — the reader reads, the writer writes. Busiest on a Friday morning, and worth the crowd.

The beating heart of Mesopotamia, where the echoes of the Islamic Golden Age still carry through the souks and along the banks of the Tigris.
Founded in the 8th century as a perfect circle on the west bank of the Tigris, Baghdad became the intellectual capital of the world within a lifetime. The House of Wisdom drew scholars from three continents to translate, argue and extend what was then the sum of human knowledge — and algebra, optics and modern astronomy all carry its fingerprints.
That inheritance is not kept behind glass. It is in the brickwork of the Al-Mustansiriya Madrasa, in the booksellers who still fill Al-Mutanabbi Street every Friday, and in the tea houses where the argument simply never stopped.
Follow the heritage trail
Three ways into the city, each a half-day and none of them a museum piece.
CultureThe book market that gives Baghdad its motto — the reader reads, the writer writes. Busiest on a Friday morning, and worth the crowd.
MuseumsSumer, Akkad, Assyria and Babylon under one roof, including the winged lamassu that once guarded palace gates at Khorsabad.
CuisineCarp split, salted and stood on stakes around an open fire for the better part of an hour. Eaten late, beside the water, with bread and lemon.
No single city tells the whole story. Follow the thread onward — through the gallery of destinations, or straight into planning the trip.